Category: Geosemiotics


Zaha Hadid, Iraqi-British winner of the Pritzker Architecture Prize (image courtesy of hughpearman.com)

You can work in a McDonald’s and survive. But who are we? What is our heritage? S a d a M i r e

They are both women leaders born to the predominately Muslim nations. Forced to leave for the Western world, where they received education, Dr Sada Mire of Somaliland and Zaha Hadid of Iraq traveled back to their home countries to do creative projects and uplift the lives of the local communities by re-branding their motherlands.

Dr Sada Mire posing for the “Discover Magazine” (photo by Graham Trott, Grooming: Claire Hanson)

Having a background in journalism, Sada has produced films on Somali cultural heritage and management for Somaliland TV. She also produced a short film report for Channel Four UK about the young single Somali refugees who are susceptible to terrorist groups in the UK.

The world’s only active Somali archaeologist, Sada lived the first fifteen years of her life in Mogadishu, until 1991, when she settled in Sweden, as a result of the conflict in the Horn of Africa. She studied at the School of Oriental & African Studies, University of London, for her B.A., and then at University College London for her M.A. and Ph.D., conducting field research in Somaliland.

Sada is currently advisor to and former Director of the Republic of Somaliland’s Department of Tourism & Archaeology, which she founded in 2007. Mohamed Abdi Ali, who works for the department, estimated that since, for example, the Lass Geel site was opened in 2002, between 50 and 60 tourists come to the area each month.

Dr Sada Mire is founder and executive director of the Horn Heritage Organization that assists the mapping of all monuments and sites of Somaliland and the creation of Somaliland National Heritage Law. In pursuit to preserve the Somali heritage, HHO plans to build a centre in Hargeysa for scientific research facility, storage and education. At the moment, the Somaliland government and delegates from the Paul-Valéry Universityin France are collaborating on a project to develop archaeological sites in Somaliland. (See How culture contributes to development: an UNESCO indicator suite)

Sada has worked as a technical assistant for the UNDP in Somalilandon cultural resource management and capacity building. Sada has conducted fieldwork in several European and African countries – from the UK and Denmark to Kenya and Egypt. She is a TED-Speaker. (See The Creator Of TED reinvents conferencing again) Sada believes that cultural heritage is a basic human need.

When she first came back to Somalia as a PhD student, Sada discovered that no one was funding culture in Somaliland, not even the government. “So after four years of giving talks and screaming and running all over the world and telling everyone what is happening, the UN decided to fund my position with the government.”

In an interview with a blogger Belinda Otas, Sada explained the ideas behind her work:

In Somaliland, there is poverty after the war. This is a country that has been totally destroyed. In Somalia, we still have a war. (See The worst music with the best intentions? Insights on a Zimbabwean fundraising tune for Somalia) I went to Somaliland because that is the only place where I can actually do my work. There is peace there. Since it’s not a recognised country, it does not have support and humanitarian assistance that a country, which is part of the UN would have. [Somalia, the recognized state never ratified the World Heritage Convention, by the way] (See Whose premise: UNESCO-Harare or UNESCO-Paris?)

I’m trying to get people to realise the importance of heritage and guide them in that context. I go to the rural areas where the sites are based. When they see my work, they realise the discovered sites are important and could become potential world heritage sites that can help them to develop economically, educationally and help them in their identity building.

The explanation on Somaliheritage.org sheds more light on the paralysis caused by the absence of international mechanisms within the UN system to protect the heritage of  non-member states:

The UN member nation-state of Somalia consists today of a war-torn society made of three new regions, these are Somaliland, Puntland and south-central Somalia. Somaliland is a break-away state with its own government which seeks an international recognition as an independent nation-state. Puntland is a semiautonomous region. Puntland and south-central Somalia are still facing instabilities due to ongoing war and piracy.

Furthermore, severe poverty and prolonged droughts threaten all Somali regions. The archaeology of Somalia, Puntland and Somaliland is disappearing systematically. Some people are destroying the archaeological heritage by looting and clandestine excavations. Archaeology has become a source to feed upon. Since severe poverty mostly triggers the destruction the solution to the problem needs to be multiple. The potentials of cultural heritage resources must be highlighted to the current looters and it must be made explicit how future possibilities for education, job opportunities and tourism can benefit them in the long term.

Most of the archaeological sites suffer also the environmental changes; parts of the country have undergone desertification, particularly in north-eastern part of the country.

Talking to the Discover Magazine, Sada explained her interest in archeology as career:

The world’s only active Somali archaeologist, Sada Mire (photo courtesy of BBC)

When I was a refugee, I studied Scandinavian archaeology because I wanted to understand my new surroundings. After learning about European culture, I became interested in my own past.

When she came across a book by Basil Davidson, Africa: The Story of A Continent and saw the images of Ashanti people holding and wearing gold, the sculptures of Ife, Nok and Ethiopia, she soon realised there wasn’t much study about African archaeology or history. “Its like there were all these previous civilisations, which colonialism has taken away from us and one of the passages I read was that in order to understand African history, there needs to be archaeologists who excavate the history of Africa. There is what the English wrote, what the Arabs wrote but where is what the Africans wrote? And that made me want to study it.”

Even though, her work has been limited to Somaliland which, unlike the rest of Somalia, remains relatively peaceful, travelling between towns Sada employs guards armed with AK-47s. The roads themselves are treacherous, and landmines and deadly snakes litter the countryside where many of the archaeological sites are found. Some sites are also now secured by armed guards, to prevent looters. The country as yet has no museums. (See Steppes In Figures #4: Southern Africa trivia from last year)

Says Dr Andrew Reid of University College London – Sada’s PhD supervisor:

One of the problems Sada has had to deal with is how to define mobile, nomadic heritage. In Somalia they carry cultural heritage in their heads. It’s not something you can point to and say, ‘Isn’t this a fantastic building?’ Their cultural heritage is much more difficult to define.

This is the reason why Sada makes emphasis on the preservation of intangible cultural heritage of Somalia. (See UNESCO partners with NHK to produce World Heritage videos) ICH encompasses living expressions and the traditions that countless groups and communities worldwide have inherited from their ancestors and transmit to their descendants, in most cases orally. According to Wikipedia, Japan was the first nation state to introduce legislation to protect and promote its intangible heritage.

Intangible Cultural Heritage means the practices, representations, expressions, knowledge, skills – as well as the instruments, objects, artifacts and cultural spaces associated therewith – that communities, groups and, in some cases, individuals recognize as part of their cultural heritage. This intangible cultural heritage, transmitted from generation to generation, is constantly recreated by communities and groups in response to their environment, their interaction with nature and their history, and provides them with a sense of identity and continuity, thus promoting respect for cultural diversity and human creativity.

For Somalia, ICH includes knowledge of the (nomadic) landscape, oral culture, portable houses, city life, survival during the civil war–what Sada calls a knowledge-centered approach.

Sada regards national heritage as a human right, crucial to a nation’s sense of itself even during a time of conflict and famine. Speaking to Outlook from the BBC World Service, she further explains the effect of her attempts at re-branding Somalia on her people’s lives, “When we find sites and I am able to tell local people about the importance of the site and the potential that can come from it – its significance for world heritage – it gives them dignity and pride. Our culture is very oral, so people need to hear from somebody and they repeat it. People immediately feel that they have something, a resource. They can say, ‘We may not have a lot but if we can take care of this site, we have something.’”

Inside of a “tower house” in Old Sana’a (image courtesy of the Saudi Aramco World)

Dr Sada Mire is not the first promoter of  heritage preservation in an Islamic nation that used the media to draw
attention of the international community and change UN policies. One doesn’t need to swim far in search for examples. Just across the Gulf of Aden. As was reminded to us by Eric Hansenthe author of Motoring with Mohammed – Journeys to Yemen and the Red Sea and a frequent contributor to Saudi Aramco World,  in 1970, the Italian film director Pier Paolo Pasolini produced a 15-minute documentary, The Walls of Sana‘a, which he sent to the UNESCO as an appeal for international help to save the old city of the Yemeni capital. Back then, Pasolini visited Sana‘a for a few days to film his famous The Decameron and was struck by Sana’a and shocked at the prospect of ‘modernization,’ a ‘development’ wave that two decades later swept through Beijing and characterized Pasolisini’s native Italy after the Second World War. Now the Old City of Sana’a is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

When Zaha Hadid (who was born on the opposite side of the Arabian desert twenty years before Pasolini set his camera on the Yemeni soil to film The Walls of Sana‘a) won the $100,000 Pritzker Prize in 2004 – the first female ever to win America’s most prestigious architecture award – the judges said she would have been famous if she’d never built a thing. (In 2010, she was awarded the Royal Institute of British Architects Stirling Prize for MAXXI – National Museum of the 21st Century Arts in Rome. Hadid got this prize again last year).

You can go almost anywhere — Azerbaijan (where Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center officially opened on 10 May 2012. Located close to the city center, the site plays a pivotal role in the redevelopment of Baku.), Singapore, Abu Dhabi, South Korea, Italy, China, Libya or Turkey — and expect to find a building designed by Hadid, a project for one under way, or a master plan in progress. Last year in Libya, Hadid’s new conference center outside of Tripoli was “put on hold.”  As a result of the unforseen Arab Spring events in North Africa, Zaha Hadid Architects made a quarter of its staff redundant, laying off more than 90 employees.

MAXXI – National Museum of the 21st Century Arts in Rome by Zaha Hadid

One of the Pritzker judges, the veteran American architecture critic Ada Louise Huxtable, said that Hadid “has changed the way we see and experience space.”  Hadid takes space in her hands and kneads it like dough, or slices it up like freshly prepared vegetables. Floors swoop, walls lean, ceilings fly away, outside and inside get all mixed up. Your expectations are confounded.

Hallway of Guangzhou Opera House in China by Zaha hadid (image courtesy of Roy Zhuang)

Hadid’s father Mohammed, a leading businessman and social democrat, was involved in industrialising Iraq during the period when oil revenues were pouring into the country’s coffers. After the rise of Saddam Hussein and the Iran-Iraq war, most of the professional classes, including her family, quit the country.

Hadid has lived in London since 1972, when she arrived from her native Baghdad, by way of a mathematics degree at the American University in Beirut. “I always loved London. My father went to school in England in the 1930s. I went to an English boarding school for a while. My brothers were at school in England, so I spent my summers in London while I was growing up,” explained Hadid in an interview for the British Airways High Life in-flight magazine.

Reflecting on her teachers, she said, “You had to be smart enough to chase them, and make them teach you. You had to learn what you wanted to learn.” Her mentor at the architectural association was the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, who is now also a global superstar. (“Rem can sleep on planes,” says Zaha enviously. He likes flying. I don’t.”)  (See Why I am excited about flying through Dubai or Why I am excited not to fly through OR Tambo in Jozi)

Since 2004, Rem Koolhaas spent four years with a team of students of The Harvard Project on the City, regularly coming to Lagos to research the type of urbanity that is produced by uncontrolled, explosive population growth. Fascinated by the energy of Lagos, and driven by the desire to understand modernity in all its aspects, Koolhaas set out to learn from Lagos, rather than planning, building or changing anything. (See ArchiAfrika 2011 conference: discussing the future of African citiesNavigating African cities through our own unique and diverse mental maps)

Baghdad, the second largest city in Western Asia (after Tehran) first introduced Zaha Hadid to the idea of architecture

Notwithstanding its notoriety, Lagos continues to have enormous appeal for vast numbers of people. Every hour, 21 new inhabitants set out to start a life in the city, a life that is highly unpredictable and requires risk-taking, networking and improvisation as essential strategies for survival.

A documentary Lagos/Koolhaas follows Rem Koolhaas during his research in Lagos over a period of two years. Using small digital cameras, film-makers documented Koolhaas documenting Lagos. They tried to grasp and convey a sense of the new urban life that is being invented in this Nigerian megapolis.

Interestingly, early in his life, Koolhaas studied scriptwriting at the Netherlands Film and Television Academy in Amsterdam. He co-wrote The White Slave, a 1969 Dutch film noir, and later wrote an unproduced script for American soft-porn king Russ Meyer.

Koolhaas’ father was a novelist, critic, and screenwriter. Two documentary films by Bert Haanstra for which his father wrote the scenarios were nominated for an Academy Award for Documentary Feature, one won a Golden Bear for Short Film.

His father strongly supported the Indonesian cause for autonomy from the colonial Dutch in his writing. When the war of independence was won, he was invited over to run a cultural programme for three years and the family moved to Jakarta in 1952. “It was a very important age for me,” Koolhaas recalls, “and I really lived as an Asian.”

CCTV Headquarters by Rem Koolhaas in Beijing

It was Zaha Hadid’s native Baghdad (the second largest city in Western Asia, after Tehran) that first introduced Koolhaas’ trainee to the idea of architecture. “I had thought about being an architect ever since I was 11,” she says. “There was a period in Iraq in the 1960s, when identity and architecture were connected. There was a new philosophy in the country, and new buildings expressed it. I can remember going to an exhibition about Frank Lloyd Wright’s work in Baghdad. He was designing an opera house and I was intrigued.”

Due to the 1958 collapse of the Hashemite monarchy, development of the project stopped, and it was never built. (What would the late Frank Lloyd Wright say of today’s Baghdad, after sanctions, and after war? To learn)

Baghdad Tower and communication center in downtown Baghdad

Iraq’s central bank was targeted by car bombers three years ago, and Hadid was commissioned to design a replacement.

Hadid lives in Clerkenwell (in the London Borough of Islington), but spends her summers in Istanbul, a city which she loves. (See Biosphere Connections by Star Alliance+UNESCO+National Geographic) Her work shows the same passionate intensity at every scale. Her ideas for the waterfront in Istanbul and Singapore will reshape entire cities, but she is also ready to design pavilions for Dior, shoes, cutlery, bags and door handles. It is possible, in short, to live entirely in a world designed by Zaha.

Women do not get to build skyscrapers and opera houses by being shy and retiring. Don’t call her a diva: “Nobody calls Norman Foster or Frank Gehry a diva.”

It’s been almost a year since our founder, Andy Kozlov, talked about how Video Games Are Mapping Your World I. We decided to come back to the topic when we stumbled upon an old copy of PC Format. Their team did an awesome job mapping the world the way Sony makes PS gamers see it.

Reprinted with additions from a South African edition of PC Format (September 2011 issue)

Five continents, 96 games – this is the world according to Playstation

You’d be forgiven for thinking most games are set in New York City [See Navigating African cities through our own unique and diverse mental maps for more on NYC locations: fake vs real]. Check the stats, and you will be surprised. Developers have based their games in pretty much every corner of the globe, from Malibu to outback Australia, from Siberia to Cape Town.

But what’s most interesting is how games potray different regions [Steppes in SinS toponomy], often in terms of crass stereotypes.

We selected games on PSone, PS2 and PS3 set in the most populated areas of the world.

Look..

24% of games set in South America feature cowboys

71% of games set in Africa are violent

50% of games set in the UK deal with the paranormal

US American games by theme: 35% Sci-Fi, 30% war, 35% crime

14% of games set in Australia feature koala bears

57% of African games feature widlife – No wonder with all those safari tourism promos.

80% of Canadian games feature snow

66% of Far-Eastern heroes are law breakers

16 % of games set in the Middle East feature rappers

57% of games set in Europe are war games, with 57% of European games being set in the past – Old Ma’ Europe. Perhaps even larger percent of films and TV series in post-independence Ukraine is war-themed.

40% of UK games are set in London. What a surprise!

85% of games set in Africa have jungle settings. Another surprise!

57% of games set in Australia are sports games

Games set in Africa: Afrika (unnamed location), Far Cry 2 (Central Africa), Resident Evil 5 (Unnamed), Army of Two (Somalia), Little Big Planet (Unnamed), Sega Rally (Unnamed), Tomb Raider Legend (Ghana).

Sony came up with the games set even in Antarctica.

It is stunning how video games reflect the perceptions engraved into public mental maps of the world by other media: novels, TV series and movies. Just think of Scarface, Frankenstein or Wild Wild West.

As digestivo, let us offer you an overview done by Play Mag – “Marriage according Playstation.”

Passengers hustle to take their seats on a bus that is ready to depart from the Road Port bus terminal in Harare for Johannesburg. Vendors are also not to be outdone as they push their way out of the luxury coach that is already in motion for the journey of over a thousand kilometers.

Amid all this jostling, suddenly a loud voice cries out, “Good morning, ladies and gentlemen! This morning I am going to read from Proverbs 10:4 which says, ‘lazy hands make a man poor but diligent hands bring wealth’.”

There is a sudden silence among the passengers who seem to have been taken by surprise. The preacher, Pastor Perseverance Hara of the Pentecostal Association of Zimbabwe, then continues with his sermon before the attentive audience. “I bring the gospel of diligent hardworking to the cross-border traders.”

Pastor Hara ceases work around 4 pm just in time to catch the City-Marimba “freedom train.” There, he continues with his business. And this preacher’s religious business could grow exponentially in the future if his fellow Zimbabweans go for an expansion of commuter train services to unlock the recurring gridlocks created by the exploding number of privately owned vehicles in Zimbabwe’s capital.

Writes Lincoln Towindo of The Sunday MailThe commuter train service was introduced in Harare and Bulawayo in 2001. The trains serviced inner-city routes and were meant to address the crippling transport shortages experienced then.

They were christened “freedom trains,” ample testimony of their popularity. Images of dozens of commuters exercising “freedom” by sitting precariously on the trains still linger. Such commuters could not afford to sidestep the bandwagon of affordable commuting. The trains ferried thousands of them to and from work for only a fraction of the standard fares charged by competing public transport operators (the iconic kombis).

A decade on, the popularity of the trains is waning following the proliferation of faster transport modes and a marked increase in private vehicle ownership.

“There is no metropolitan area around the world where public commuting is entirely dependent on road transport alone,” explains Harare-based urban planning expert Percy Toriro. “Road-based commuting has to be complemented by rail transport in order to strike a balance in the context of rapid urban development. The authorities need to invest seriously in the area of rail development within suburbs. For instance, the railway line that runs through Mufakose could be extended to include surrounding suburbs such as Budiriro [means "opportunity for achievement or success" in Shona], Glen View right through to Highfield.”

An NRZ conductor Misheki Dhliwayo issues tickets to commuters on the City-Marimba Park commuter train (photo courtesy of The Sunday Mail)

“For landlocked countries such as ours, harnessing such means of mass transportation means we eventually save on energy. In turn, less private vehicles on our roads means that the environment will not suffer much.”

A trip on a “freedom train” from central Harare to Mufakose lasts  between 45 and 50 minutes. Whereas, travelling from the city centre on a commuter omnibus during the late afternoon rush hour takes over an hour, depending on the volume of traffic.

“Commuter omnibus operators plying the City-Mufakose route sometimes charge US$1 during peak hours. Apart from this, the journey is also painful. It is better for the authorities to improve commuter train services,” said Mrs Jessica Maronga, a daily communter.

“I save more by catching the train. Can you believe that I spend an average of US$2 on transport for the whole week? This translates into US$8 per month,” she added, pointing at the adjacent gridlocked Lytton Road.

The National Railways of Zimbabwe (NRZ) operates three commuter train routes in Harare: Marimba Park, Dzivarasekwa and Ruwa [a place of alleged UFO spotting in the 1990s]. It also services the Emganwini and Luveve lines in Bulawayo. A trip into town on the train costs 2 South African rand. The NRZ has also since introduced US$1 multiple-trip tickets. The train coaches accommodate up to 800 passengers.

Many cities around the world have adopted a hybrid system, which incorporates both rail and road.

Zimbabwean transport expert Blessed Muponda: “There is no transportation master plan for the cities, hence the mounting traffic congestion and increased vehicle operating costs. High-density areas are home to the majority of people with limited income, but often lack sufficient public transportation. We need to start with cost-effective rapid bus and commuter train systems with dedicated lanes and bus routes that can improve access to the city and reduce road congestion.”

In South Africa, the Gautrain service was introduced to relieve the Johannesburg-Pretoria traffic

One of the 4-car Bombardier Electrostar trainsets is seen racing away from the camera, past Kelvin Power Station towards Sandton, with an airport-bound train approaching on the right of the picture (photo Eugene Armer, courtesy of railpictures.net)

corridor of congestion and offer commuters a viable transport alternative. The service, which cost an estimated R24 billion, is based on a hybrid system that includes rapid transit buses as well as trains. Independent estimates indicate the number of cars on the N1 highway linking the two metropolises has dropped by 20% with 100,000 passengers using the trains daily.

The service was introduced on the eve of the 2010 World Cup finals. 81 railcars are to be built locally as part of the jobs creation initiative (estimated at an additional 93,000 jobs and set to create more than 3,000 others per year during operation).

Though not everything is that

Map of the N1 highway (South_Africa)

rosy about the Gautrain. The environmental benefits of the project are disputed and the environmental impact assessment revealed that Gautrain would at best be environmentally neutral. South Africa uses coal-based electricity generation and the electricity required for Gautrain would come from outside the Gauteng region. The pollution associated with the generation of this electricity would therefore effectively be exported to the Mpumalanga region, an area already under severe strain from air pollution and other abuses of power.

Critics pointed out that the project would use the majority of available national and provincial transport fundsin a context where massive amounts were needed to deal with widespread traffic congestion and commuter transport problems nationally and in the province. The existing railway system in the province,

Ben Schoeman Highway is the main freeway between Johannesburg and Pretoria

under national rather than provincial control, which serves the majority of the population, was severely underfunded and large-scale and violent public unrest caused by inadequate and old trains had manifested in the province. Critics alleged that options like rapid bus transit could achieve similar levels of service at a fraction of the costs. These matters were never submitted to a public debate as the project was designed and launched within the confines of the Gauteng Government bureaucracy.

In the United States, commuter rail services provide efficient transportation. Scheduled service is on a nonreservation basis primarily for short-distance travel between a central business district and adjacent suburbs. The metro service in New York is renowned the world over for its efficiency.

In Hawaii there’s much excitement about the construction of a new commuter rail link through Honolulu. Closer to home, Zürich has some new trams on the way and in Singapore a French consortium has just won a sizeable contract to supply some new trains for the city state’s transport system.

A Gautrain railcar built and shipped from the UK is being unloaded in Durban. From there it made its way to Midrand for quality and safety checks. There is a specially built track for test runs there

Monocle‘s Tyler Brûlé observes: The only problem with all these lanes and lines being laid around the world is that the destination is frequently neglected. Given all the excitement about how fast a 10-car train can travel from a remote suburb to city centre, or how many people a tram can attract away from their cars, mayors and planners frequently forget about the neighbourhoods and communities that their vehicles stop at.

Brûlé spent some time chatting to US transport secretary Ray LaHood:

-Is high-speed rail really going to come to the US?

- Absolutely, it’s going to happen. You’re going to see it in Illinois, it’s going to happen in California.

The next morning on the Acela train from DC station, he was reminded why the US needs to fully embrace high-speed travel. With news that American Airlines’ parent company AMR had filed for chapter 11 bankruptcy protection as I settled into my seat, I was very happy to be riding with Amtrak despite the tired interior and Wal-Mart style lighting. By the time they hit Baltimore the train was packed with travellers.

In the US, many cities are trying to figure out how to get more people to ride the rails to work rather than jumping in the car. For sure, the rolling stock is part of the problem (why is it that so many American commuter trains look like prison cars?) but the bigger issue is that suburban stations are lonely, windswept places that are anything but inviting. Largely automated affairs with no ticket offices, let alone functioning toilets or cosy places to buy a coffee, rail stations in the US have failed to seize the opportunity to become hubs of commerce and have a life that goes beyond morning and evening traffic spikes.

In Zambia, President Michael Sata, during election campaigns, promised to revive the Njanji Commuter Train Service (suspended in 1998 after two trains collided). Opened in 1991, the line was a money-spinner earning 458 million Zambian kwacha in revenue in 1995 – a typical year – when 2,700,000 passengers were carried. The pledge proved an election winner, according to observers.

Hotel Universo blogs: SALCEF Construzioni Edili e Ferroviarie S.p.A, an Italian company has agreed to put up as much as $14 million just to study the possibility of building an above-ground metro line between Maputo and its smaller neighbor, Matola. Over 200,000 people commute daily between the two cities.

“This company will risk its own capital for the study which should absorb between 15- 20% of the total of 50 million euros that the company will use up to the conclusion of the first phase of the project”, Mozambican Transport Minister Paulo Zucula told reporters.

Here Criticalmassmaputo is alluding to the woman bike fashion from Brazil

If this pans out, Mozambique would become the second country south of the Sahara with such a system. The ten miles or so that separate the cities can take as much as two hours depending on traffic, and that’s when you can catch a minibus. This wordpress blogger suggests with subtlety, “How about bikes?” referencing an interesting blog in Portuguese Criticalmassmaputo.wordpress.com.

As Honolulu presses on with its new rail project and Harare’s urban experts and NRZ officials start discussing their options, Tyler Brûlé suggests that city planners would do well to spend a bit of time in Tokyo’s suburbs and take a few cues from the Japanese rail operators who have built whole cities around their suburban stations. Everything from schools to hospitals, grocery stores to nursing homes are built beside and above stations in Japan.
How about building the first Sign Museum on the continent close to the main railway station in Harare, where the current “Traffic Lights Don’t Work” signs from Kadoma could take their due archival space?
The Guardian‘s Sam Wollaston once ‘failed miserably’ to like The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency Series by Scotland-based Alexander McCall Smith. So did a reviewer for The Times. But the Rhodesia-born author’s Newsweek essay on Gaborone (or Gabs) in Botswana (or Bots), a setting of the series,  is a not-to-miss homage to African CityBelow Steppes in Sync reprints it in full for you to enjoy.

“African cities can be discouraging. Many are surrounded by skirts of shantytowns—or informal suburbs, as they are charitably described. A visitor to Cape Town in South Africa, for example, must drive through miles of lean-to dwellings before reaching Table Mountain’s lower slopes. Farther north, things get worse. Some African cities can be downright intimidating, with their impossible traffic, frightening crime, and unplanned sprawl. Some African cities carry a health warning: do not visit unless you really have to.

And then there is Gaborone, the capital of Botswana. It is the one country in sub-Saharan Africa that seems to have avoided the post-independence slide into corruption and collapse that has afflicted the much-exploited and abused continent. Gaborone, like the country itself, is well run, neat, and, for most of its inhabitants, a remarkably pleasant place to be.

Gaborone buildings speak to a new and confident Botswana—prosperous, aware of where it’s going (courtesy of mmegi.bw)

The city is a new one. While many southern African cities have a good hundred years under their belt, Gaborone as a city really only dates back to the mid-’60s. Prior to independence, the country was administered as a protectorate, initially from Mafeking (now Mafikeng), which lies over the border in South Africa. In Botswana itself, there were in those days only a handful of towns, and Gaborone was very tiny. In 1966, when the newly independent state of Botswana came into existence, there was a small cluster of government buildings, a central mall, neatly ordered rows of government-issue houses, an airstrip, and not much else.

Then came the discovery of diamonds, and the economy of Botswana, carefully nurtured by stable and cautious government, prospered. The city began to grow.

Over the last 20 years, this growth has been considerable. Not only have extensive residential suburbs been added, but sparkling new commercial and light-industrial centers have sprung up at every turn. In the center of the city, around the government complex, a number of imposing glass towers have been erected, the headquarters of the various government ministries. These buildings speak to a new and confident Botswana—prosperous, aware of where it’s going. In the vicinity of these buildings, neat car parks house lines of well-kept vehicles under awnings. Everything is safe and well ordered: this is the polar opposite of ramshackle Africa. After all, there is usually a reason for a nickname, and Botswana, we might remind ourselves, is sometimes called the Switzerland of Africa.

Gaborone may not be as lively a town as Nairobi or Johannesburg, but it is a place where one can stand and look up at a sky so wide and empty that it makes the heart soar (courtesy of mmegi.bw)

But what of its character? There is more to a city than its water system and its public buildings. Modern towns can be soulless: bland international architecture imposed on a place says nothing of what that place has been, where it came from, and what it represents. Concrete, as W. H. Auden so acutely observed, desexes the space it occupies. There is plenty of concrete in a new city, but it need not have the effect of numbing the senses, and this has not happened in Gaborone.

The reason is that by some wonderful chance the architects who created modern Gaborone seem to have understood where they were. How they did this is a mystery. Most of the architects involved were expatriates, but I suspect that they were expatriates who actually liked the country they found themselves in and therefore had some feeling for the vernacular style. And that style really does exist. It involves a preference for curves, for feminine forms, and for shade—all worked into buildings that draw you from the heat and glare outside into a cool interior. As a result, there seems to be a direct connection between many of the new buildings of Gaborone and the lovely human effect of traditional Botswana village architecture. That architecture has a profound understanding of human scale and of domestic enclosure; consequently there is a sense in Gaborone of being somewhere profoundly comfortable.

And that is the prevailing note. This may not be as lively a town as Nairobi or Johannesburg, but it is a place where one can stand and look up at a sky so wide and empty that it makes the heart soar. This is a fine city, the center of a culture that is gentle and courteous, a good place.”

A preference for curves, for feminine forms, and for shade—all worked into buildings that draw you from the heat and glare outside into a cool interior. As a result, there seems to be a direct connection between many of the new buildings of Gaborone and the lovely human effect of traditional Botswana village architecture.

Themes and topics of The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency Series (1998-2011)

Women in traditional vs nontraditional occupations
Rural way of life in Southern Africa
Social relations in traditional African society
Christianity and traditional belief systems in contemporary Africa
Clinical depression
AIDS and AIDS orphans in Sub-Saharan Africa

The BBC and American television network HBO filmed a series based on the books. It was shot on location in Botswana and was seen as one of the first major film or television productions to be undertaken in Botswana. (The Gods Must Be Crazy, a 1980 film set in Botswana was filmed mainly in South Africa).  The government provided five million dollars of funding for this television project.

Whilst she continues to delight millions of readers worldwide and thousands of visitors to Gaborone, Mma Ramotswe (the series’ detective heroine) has become an unofficial ambassador for Botswana, according to an African Business Special Report on the Southern African nation. From the same publication:

Says President Festus Mogae’s press secretary Jeff Ramsay: “Her name comes up all the time, and usually first! In India recently the president was asked how he felt being her president – only after he and his hosts had talked about Mma Ramotswe did the delegation get down to business.”

Visitors to Gaborone can ‘walk the beat’ of Botswana’s famous detective.

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