Category: Getting around and between Steppes


by Andy Kozlov

I must confess I do not know much about theatre in Zimbabwe. In fact I don’t know much about it in general. And my only visit to a theatre performance in Harare was to Reps half a year ago. It was then and there that fists flew when the Big House met the Small House in a play called “Married versus Single.” Just couldn’t resist the title. And true: it WAS fun. With HIFA rocking Harare this month, I realized I should learn more about theatre. (See HIFA’s 2011 engagements with Zimbabwean community)

“Married versus Single” (image courtesy of Zimbojam)

Searching the net about Zimbabwe doesn’t give you much compared to theatre scenes in other English-speaking countries. Yet at the end of last year, Stephen Chifunyise, Zimbabwe’s well-known playwright and culture analyst, published a comprehensive survey in The Herald. Reflecting on the achievements in 2011 he wrote:

The first major success highlight of the 2011 theatre season which demonstrated the potential for a vibrant and viable theatre industry in Zimbabwe were the more than 25 new plays which were world premiered during the year. Those plays that have been included in this impressive list of new plays are those whose productions were reported in the media. Therefore, if one includes those new plays presented by community theatre groups, colleges and schools but were not reported by the media, our 2011 theatre production may even reach a 40 plays mark.

According to his UNESCO profile, Chifunyise is an arts, culture and education consultant and the Principal of the Zimbabwe Academy of Arts Education for Development. He is currently the Chairman of several organisations in Zimbabwe that deal notably with cultural diversity, publishing, performing arts and intangible heritage. (See What the world’s only active Somali archaeologist has in common with the Iraqi-British winner of the Pritzker Architecture Prize) He has broad knowledge of theatre issues and has facilitated numerous theatre-for-development and theatre-skills workshops in Angola, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Lesotho, Swaziland and Cameroon. (See How culture contributes to development: an UNESCO indicator suite)

Siyaya arts group from Makokoba township in Bulawayo was featured in-style in the first issue of the Inspiration Avenue magazine, a Zimbabwean lifestyle publication

Over the past 25 years, Mr Chifunyise has been involved in cultural policy formulation and evaluation in Africa. He contributed in particular to the evaluation of cultural policies in Malawi, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Lesotho, Swaziland and Mauritius and is a founding member of the Observatory on Cultural Policies in Africa. (See Popular narratives of Gaborone in Africa’s Switzerland and beyond) He played a prominent role in the development of the Southern African Development Community Arts and Culture Festivals from 1994 to 2000 and chaired the Southern African Film Festival (1990-1996). (See What some Zimbabweans know and those that don’t can learn from other nations’ film industries) Chifunyise facilitated the review and classification of the culture sector and the formulation of the National Action Plan for the Culture Sector in Botswana in 2004-2008.

In his article in The Herald, Chifunyise listed a number of successful premiers. Among those, he mentioned his own “365”and Blessing Hungwe‘s “Burn Mukwerekwere Burn.”

At this stage, I wanted to find out a bit more of the behind-the-scenes story of theatre production in Zimbabwe’s capital. I spoke to Blessing Hungwe, one of the protagonists of Harare theatre. I first met him at a regular meeting of the re-vitalized Zimbabwe Writer’s Association back in March. A week later, we were sitting on a stone bench in the Harare Gardens chatting about Blessing’s work. (See Every nation needs an international festival II: Harare vs Cape Town? and Zimbabwean hospitality)

AK: When did you first discover your passion for theatre?

BH: As early as high school when I was studying in Gweru. Then I moved to Harare where I met Stanley Mambo who was a big theatre practitioner back then before he moved to Malawi. He was into physical theatre. In 2007, I started my own small independent production company.

Reps Theatre in Harare (image courtesy of twinarts.co.zw)

AK: How would you describe the theatre scene in Harare?

BH: Harare is sort of split into two theatre movements: there’s the Reps crew, which is mostly into repertory production. They just re-do old-school productions and reinvent them for the Harare scene. They keep theatre alive throughout the whole year. Then we have Theatre in the Park, which is another venue just by the Harare Gardens. They stage contemporary Zimbabwean works. That’s where we mostly stage our plays.

AK: And what are your works about?

BH: I mostly deal with socio-economic issues in my plays. My last major play “Burn Mukwerekwere Burn” is about xenophobia.

AK: What are you working on now?

BH: In the play that I am preparing for HIFA [the interview took place in March 2012], I deal with the girl-child trafficking in Zimbabwe. It’s very rife these days. Girls are being trafficked from the rural areas to Harare. They are being trafficked from Harare to South Africa and all over Southern Africa. Zimbabwe has become a kind of hub for the trafficking.

AK: What creative techniques do you use when you work on a play?

BH: When I write, I usually try to run away from facts. What often happens in Zimbabwean productions is our plays become highly rhetorical. We sort of blurt out the facts from the stage. We should try to make it subtle to let our viewers enjoy unravelling the play.

AK: What do you expect from HIFA this year?

BH: For me, HIFA is the major platform to premier my work. Most of my works are artistic. So they need an artistic audience to appreciate them. I prefer premiering my work at HIFA, seeking a discerning audience against whom I can then measure myself. And, from the experience, the plays that are shown at HIFA are bound to travel outside Zimbabwe. By doing this, Zimbabwean productions can benefit from and contribute to the development of other countries’ creative industries.

AK: What are some of the challenges facing Zimbabwean theatre internationally?

BH: We have been protesting through theatre in the last decade to the extent that for the international audience it has become a stereotypical image of Zimbabwean theatre community. We are not only about protest theatre. The international media needs to understand that it’s a cliché now to descibe us this way. We have different genres within the local context. [Check out Siyaya arts group from Makokoba in Bulawayo and their show Zambezi Express that traveled across the world] (See The Perks of Traveling by Rail in Zimbabwe (if any) and Urban rail in Africa: Whether “freedom trains” will solve Zimbabwe’s traffic jam problems, more attention should be paid to what happens when you board at A and get off at B. And don’t forget the bike!)

Blessing Hungwe

AK: I know that you also work in other media like film and television. How does that kind of work inspire your theatrical creativity? [Blessing used to work on film projects with the Afriwood's Stephen Chigorimbo] (See From Zimbabwe to Australia: Stephen Chigorimbo on the International Public Television event and My North Korean film classes in humanity and creativity)

BH: Actually, when we were working on a TV series, I was in the midst of writing “Burn Mukwerekwere Burn”. You write at night, while shooting the drama during the day. You get stuck sometimes when you are writing. I got stuck on a piece – didn’t know what to do with a certain character. And it was during the shoot one of those days that I realized how to introduce a character in my play that I had long struggled to. That’s how I broke into that character. (See Afriwood to participate in 2012 Ukrainian Content Market)

Our conversation ends and in parting Blessing tells me that his company received an award from National Arts Merit Awards this year. He also shares his plans to train young residents of Chitungwiza to help them become professionals both in theatre and television.

Who knows, maybe in 20 years some other dummy will be unravelling the behind-the scenes stories helped by Blessing’s students in the run up to HIFA. Sitting on the same stone bench in the autumnal Harare Gardens.

You can write to Andy Kozlov on a.kozlov@steppesinsync.com

What’s in your bag, Wladimir Kaminer? This  is a question Lufthansa Magazin asked Moscow-born German short-story writer, columnist, and DJ in the

Wladimir Kaminer revealed the contents of his travel bag to Lufthansa Magazin

Gepäckkontrolle section of this month’s in-flight publication. The conversation took place at Berlin-Tegel airport . (See

Lufthansa Regional still gets Ukraine wrong.)

Lugthansa Magazin April 2012

Herr Kaminer revealed the insides of  a writer-on -the-road briefcase by  showing a bunch of “Russendisko: Ukraine do Amerika,” his CDs with disco music, “I spin discs and sell my CDs before readings and during intermissions. That’s why I always carry a stack of them around.”

iPad ”What a waste of money and slap in the face of progress! The text editor isn’t very good and iTunes doesn’t have Russian movies or songs.”

“Book Triste Tropique by Claude Lévi-Strauss is one of the world’s top 100 books of all time.”

Together with goggles and a Cuban cigar Romeo y Julieta the long-time non-smoker carries with him just in case, Kaminer has ginger in his bag. ”I can’t afford to cough on stage so I often chew a piece of ginger. It’s better than any pill.”

Last month, the 44-year-old author saw his book Russian Disco premier as a film in Germany. The film is about three young Russian friends, who move from Moscow to Berlin in a lucky wave of emigration right after the fall of the Berlin Wall. They take their chance looking for a better life and find themselves involved in the tales of everyday lunacy on the streets of Berlin and its spirit of the early nineties. (See The Russian Barber of Harare.)

This is an auto-biographical account. After initially training as an audio engineer for theatre and radio, Kaminer studied dramaturgy at the Moscow Institute of Theater. Following the collapse of the Berlin Wall, Kaminer emigrated to Marzahn, Berlin, in 1990.

When SinS were researching this post we came across a product placement homage on Mercedes-Benz web site to the Stroke (Slash) 8, a vehicle-protagonist of the Russian Disco film:

Thrift and cunning force Wladimir, Mischa and Andrej to use their old-timer for more than the odd trip to a nearby lake or to transport copious amounts of beer. Throughout the film, the limousine doubles as a getaway car, bedroom and living quarters for the clueless, yet intrepid trio. And director Oliver Ziegenbalg calls up plenty of memories of his own concerning teenage outings in a Stroke 8. “We loved to cruise around our hood in Stroke 8,” bolstered by a sense of strength, safety and optimism. Built like a tank, the angular limousine becomes its own stronghold, yet moves around like an imposing champ. Ziegenbalg confirms this impression, “there you are, cruising around town, and everything seems easy, cool and simply great.”

Beginning in 1968, Mercedes marketed their model range as New Generation Models, giving their ID plates the designation ‘/8′ (due to their 1968 Launch year). Because they were the only truly new cars of the so-called ‘New Generation’ and because of the ‘/8′ or ‘slash eight’ designation, W114 and W115 models ultimately received the German nickname Strich Acht, loosely translated into the English Slash Eight.

a version of this essay by Andy Kozlov appeared in the March 2012 issue Hello Harare! 

The opening of the new drug resistant tuberculosis ward at Nhlangano Health Centre in the Shiselweni region of southern Swaziland (Image courtesy of MSF)

I have a friend, an Ukrainian like me, who is used to hopping between countries without a medical insurance. When he was getting ready for his first trip to Zimbabwe, he needed to face the hassle of (re)-immunization. So to get the 1/3 (one out of three) shot against Hepatitis B, he went to a clinic in Rome. He later got his 2/3 in Donetsk, and a year after (while already here) pocketed out US dollars for the shot number three at a private clinic in Avondale.

It was too late for him to get an anti-typhoid booster, so the doctors in Italy gave him a pill, which is said to protect you for a year. So again, our hero had to visit Avondale a year after and produce 50 bucks for the shot.’Fortunately,’ Hepatitis A is like flu in Ukraine (not the pig one of Mexico).  So having contracted it as a child, our hero has a life-long protection. –Huh, saved at least on that! (The HIV/AIDS rate in some parts of Ukraine is up in arms to compete with that of Southern Africa, but let’s not go into that.)

“Hundred dollars for the X-ray, 50 for the dental work. –But what can you do?” – he sometimes tells me with evident exasperation “What other options do you have staying in any given country for less than a month?”

Top Ranking Cities for Health, Safety and Security in 2011 (source PriceWaterhouseCoopers ‘Cities of Opportunity‘ via Monocle)

  1. Stockholm
  2. Toronto
  3. Chicago
  4. San Francisco
  5. Sydney
  6. Houston
  7. Berlin
  8. Singapore
  9. New York
  10. Tokyo

Kharkiv oblast children’s hospital (Image courtesy of streets-kharkiv.info)

From this list, if you want to enjoy health, safety and security go to Scandinavia. Forget the planes, unless you can hold your breath throughout the flight. I wasn’t that skilled, and was knocked down by a cold picked somewhere between Jo’burg and Munich.

No worries for you  going to those low-on-the-list places that have huge potential. There will always be the right clinic with the right vaccine in Mbabane or Kharkiv (Харків/Харьков). Fingers crossed!

Passengers hustle to take their seats on a bus that is ready to depart from the Road Port bus terminal in Harare for Johannesburg. Vendors are also not to be outdone as they push their way out of the luxury coach that is already in motion for the journey of over a thousand kilometers.

Amid all this jostling, suddenly a loud voice cries out, “Good morning, ladies and gentlemen! This morning I am going to read from Proverbs 10:4 which says, ‘lazy hands make a man poor but diligent hands bring wealth’.”

There is a sudden silence among the passengers who seem to have been taken by surprise. The preacher, Pastor Perseverance Hara of the Pentecostal Association of Zimbabwe, then continues with his sermon before the attentive audience. “I bring the gospel of diligent hardworking to the cross-border traders.”

Pastor Hara ceases work around 4 pm just in time to catch the City-Marimba “freedom train.” There, he continues with his business. And this preacher’s religious business could grow exponentially in the future if his fellow Zimbabweans go for an expansion of commuter train services to unlock the recurring gridlocks created by the exploding number of privately owned vehicles in Zimbabwe’s capital.

Writes Lincoln Towindo of The Sunday MailThe commuter train service was introduced in Harare and Bulawayo in 2001. The trains serviced inner-city routes and were meant to address the crippling transport shortages experienced then.

They were christened “freedom trains,” ample testimony of their popularity. Images of dozens of commuters exercising “freedom” by sitting precariously on the trains still linger. Such commuters could not afford to sidestep the bandwagon of affordable commuting. The trains ferried thousands of them to and from work for only a fraction of the standard fares charged by competing public transport operators (the iconic kombis).

A decade on, the popularity of the trains is waning following the proliferation of faster transport modes and a marked increase in private vehicle ownership.

“There is no metropolitan area around the world where public commuting is entirely dependent on road transport alone,” explains Harare-based urban planning expert Percy Toriro. “Road-based commuting has to be complemented by rail transport in order to strike a balance in the context of rapid urban development. The authorities need to invest seriously in the area of rail development within suburbs. For instance, the railway line that runs through Mufakose could be extended to include surrounding suburbs such as Budiriro [means "opportunity for achievement or success" in Shona], Glen View right through to Highfield.”

An NRZ conductor Misheki Dhliwayo issues tickets to commuters on the City-Marimba Park commuter train (photo courtesy of The Sunday Mail)

“For landlocked countries such as ours, harnessing such means of mass transportation means we eventually save on energy. In turn, less private vehicles on our roads means that the environment will not suffer much.”

A trip on a “freedom train” from central Harare to Mufakose lasts  between 45 and 50 minutes. Whereas, travelling from the city centre on a commuter omnibus during the late afternoon rush hour takes over an hour, depending on the volume of traffic.

“Commuter omnibus operators plying the City-Mufakose route sometimes charge US$1 during peak hours. Apart from this, the journey is also painful. It is better for the authorities to improve commuter train services,” said Mrs Jessica Maronga, a daily communter.

“I save more by catching the train. Can you believe that I spend an average of US$2 on transport for the whole week? This translates into US$8 per month,” she added, pointing at the adjacent gridlocked Lytton Road.

The National Railways of Zimbabwe (NRZ) operates three commuter train routes in Harare: Marimba Park, Dzivarasekwa and Ruwa [a place of alleged UFO spotting in the 1990s]. It also services the Emganwini and Luveve lines in Bulawayo. A trip into town on the train costs 2 South African rand. The NRZ has also since introduced US$1 multiple-trip tickets. The train coaches accommodate up to 800 passengers.

Many cities around the world have adopted a hybrid system, which incorporates both rail and road.

Zimbabwean transport expert Blessed Muponda: “There is no transportation master plan for the cities, hence the mounting traffic congestion and increased vehicle operating costs. High-density areas are home to the majority of people with limited income, but often lack sufficient public transportation. We need to start with cost-effective rapid bus and commuter train systems with dedicated lanes and bus routes that can improve access to the city and reduce road congestion.”

In South Africa, the Gautrain service was introduced to relieve the Johannesburg-Pretoria traffic

One of the 4-car Bombardier Electrostar trainsets is seen racing away from the camera, past Kelvin Power Station towards Sandton, with an airport-bound train approaching on the right of the picture (photo Eugene Armer, courtesy of railpictures.net)

corridor of congestion and offer commuters a viable transport alternative. The service, which cost an estimated R24 billion, is based on a hybrid system that includes rapid transit buses as well as trains. Independent estimates indicate the number of cars on the N1 highway linking the two metropolises has dropped by 20% with 100,000 passengers using the trains daily.

The service was introduced on the eve of the 2010 World Cup finals. 81 railcars are to be built locally as part of the jobs creation initiative (estimated at an additional 93,000 jobs and set to create more than 3,000 others per year during operation).

Though not everything is that

Map of the N1 highway (South_Africa)

rosy about the Gautrain. The environmental benefits of the project are disputed and the environmental impact assessment revealed that Gautrain would at best be environmentally neutral. South Africa uses coal-based electricity generation and the electricity required for Gautrain would come from outside the Gauteng region. The pollution associated with the generation of this electricity would therefore effectively be exported to the Mpumalanga region, an area already under severe strain from air pollution and other abuses of power.

Critics pointed out that the project would use the majority of available national and provincial transport fundsin a context where massive amounts were needed to deal with widespread traffic congestion and commuter transport problems nationally and in the province. The existing railway system in the province,

Ben Schoeman Highway is the main freeway between Johannesburg and Pretoria

under national rather than provincial control, which serves the majority of the population, was severely underfunded and large-scale and violent public unrest caused by inadequate and old trains had manifested in the province. Critics alleged that options like rapid bus transit could achieve similar levels of service at a fraction of the costs. These matters were never submitted to a public debate as the project was designed and launched within the confines of the Gauteng Government bureaucracy.

In the United States, commuter rail services provide efficient transportation. Scheduled service is on a nonreservation basis primarily for short-distance travel between a central business district and adjacent suburbs. The metro service in New York is renowned the world over for its efficiency.

In Hawaii there’s much excitement about the construction of a new commuter rail link through Honolulu. Closer to home, Zürich has some new trams on the way and in Singapore a French consortium has just won a sizeable contract to supply some new trains for the city state’s transport system.

A Gautrain railcar built and shipped from the UK is being unloaded in Durban. From there it made its way to Midrand for quality and safety checks. There is a specially built track for test runs there

Monocle‘s Tyler Brûlé observes: The only problem with all these lanes and lines being laid around the world is that the destination is frequently neglected. Given all the excitement about how fast a 10-car train can travel from a remote suburb to city centre, or how many people a tram can attract away from their cars, mayors and planners frequently forget about the neighbourhoods and communities that their vehicles stop at.

Brûlé spent some time chatting to US transport secretary Ray LaHood:

-Is high-speed rail really going to come to the US?

- Absolutely, it’s going to happen. You’re going to see it in Illinois, it’s going to happen in California.

The next morning on the Acela train from DC station, he was reminded why the US needs to fully embrace high-speed travel. With news that American Airlines’ parent company AMR had filed for chapter 11 bankruptcy protection as I settled into my seat, I was very happy to be riding with Amtrak despite the tired interior and Wal-Mart style lighting. By the time they hit Baltimore the train was packed with travellers.

In the US, many cities are trying to figure out how to get more people to ride the rails to work rather than jumping in the car. For sure, the rolling stock is part of the problem (why is it that so many American commuter trains look like prison cars?) but the bigger issue is that suburban stations are lonely, windswept places that are anything but inviting. Largely automated affairs with no ticket offices, let alone functioning toilets or cosy places to buy a coffee, rail stations in the US have failed to seize the opportunity to become hubs of commerce and have a life that goes beyond morning and evening traffic spikes.

In Zambia, President Michael Sata, during election campaigns, promised to revive the Njanji Commuter Train Service (suspended in 1998 after two trains collided). Opened in 1991, the line was a money-spinner earning 458 million Zambian kwacha in revenue in 1995 – a typical year – when 2,700,000 passengers were carried. The pledge proved an election winner, according to observers.

Hotel Universo blogs: SALCEF Construzioni Edili e Ferroviarie S.p.A, an Italian company has agreed to put up as much as $14 million just to study the possibility of building an above-ground metro line between Maputo and its smaller neighbor, Matola. Over 200,000 people commute daily between the two cities.

“This company will risk its own capital for the study which should absorb between 15- 20% of the total of 50 million euros that the company will use up to the conclusion of the first phase of the project”, Mozambican Transport Minister Paulo Zucula told reporters.

Here Criticalmassmaputo is alluding to the woman bike fashion from Brazil

If this pans out, Mozambique would become the second country south of the Sahara with such a system. The ten miles or so that separate the cities can take as much as two hours depending on traffic, and that’s when you can catch a minibus. This wordpress blogger suggests with subtlety, “How about bikes?” referencing an interesting blog in Portuguese Criticalmassmaputo.wordpress.com.

As Honolulu presses on with its new rail project and Harare’s urban experts and NRZ officials start discussing their options, Tyler Brûlé suggests that city planners would do well to spend a bit of time in Tokyo’s suburbs and take a few cues from the Japanese rail operators who have built whole cities around their suburban stations. Everything from schools to hospitals, grocery stores to nursing homes are built beside and above stations in Japan.
How about building the first Sign Museum on the continent close to the main railway station in Harare, where the current “Traffic Lights Don’t Work” signs from Kadoma could take their due archival space?
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